[ 18650 & 21700 Battery Pack Calculator ]
[ Overview ]
Two numbers decide what a pack is. Series (S) stacks cells to add their voltage; parallel (P) joins cells to add their capacity and their current. A 4S3P pack is four cells in series, three of those in parallel, twelve cells total. Pick those two counts and the cell, and everything else follows. This calculator takes a cell format (18650, 21700, 26650 or 32700), a chemistry, and your S and P, and gives back the pack voltage, capacity, energy, the most current the cells can deliver, a charge-current estimate, the weight in cells, and an optional runtime at a load you type in. It all runs in your browser; nothing is sent anywhere. It sizes the cells. It does not pick your BMS, your charger, or your wire for you, but it gives you the numbers those choices hang off. When you are ready to actually build and wire one, the Daly BMS guide and the 5S BMS guide cover that end, and the safety notes below cover the parts that start fires.
[ Calculator ]
Start from a cell format and it fills in typical numbers; edit any of them for the exact cell in your hand (the cell's datasheet, or lygte-info.dk, has real figures). Leave Load at 0 if you only want the pack ratings.
[ How it reads ]
The two counts do different jobs:
series (S) cells stacked + to −, which adds their voltages. S sets
the pack voltage. A 4S Li-ion pack is ~14.8V nominal.
parallel (P) cells joined + to + and − to −, which adds their
capacity and their current. P sets runtime and how hard
you can pull.
Everything the calculator shows falls out of those two and the cell you picked:
pack voltage = S × cell voltage (full / nominal / empty)
capacity (Ah) = P × cell mAh / 1000
energy (Wh) = nominal volts × capacity
max continuous A = P × the cell's max continuous current
charge current = capacity × charge-rate C
usable energy = energy × usable depth %
A few notes on the outputs:
— Empty (pack floor) is where the BMS should cut off, not zero volts.
Running a cell below it is what kills it.
— Usable energy trims the full figure to the depth you actually cycle.
Draining to 100% every time shortens life, so 80% is a sane default for
planning runtime.
— Max continuous is what the cells can give. Your BMS and wiring have to
be rated for your real peak draw, which is usually far lower.
— Weight is cells only. Add roughly 10–20% for nickel, wiring, the BMS,
and the enclosure.
[ Cell formats ]
The number is just the size in millimetres: an 18650 is 18mm across and 65mm long, a 21700 is 21 × 70, and so on. Bigger can means more capacity and usually more current, at more weight and volume. format size mm typical cap typical max rough weight 18650 18 x 65 2500–3500 8–30 A 45–48 g 21700 21 x 70 4000–5000 10–35 A 68–70 g 26650 26 x 65 4000–5000 20–50 A 85–95 g 32700 32 x 70 5000–6000 ~10 A 140–150 g A real 18650 tops out near 3500mAh; a Samsung INR18650-35E (3500mAh, 8A) is about as much as the chemistry gives in that size. Anything on the wrapper claiming 9900mAh is a re-wrapped 800mAh cell with a sticker. lygte-info.dk has independent discharge curves for most cells worth buying, and plenty that are not. 26650 and 32700 are most common as LiFePO4 (3.2V nominal), the chemistry you want for a flat discharge curve and a long cycle life. Switch the Chemistry selector and the pack voltages change to match: LiFePO4 is 3.65V full and 2.5V empty per cell, against 4.2V and 3.0V for Li-ion.
[ Safety & fusing ]
A shorted lithium cell dumps tens of amps into whatever is across it and gets
hot enough to start a fire. The arithmetic above is the easy part; the build is
where people get hurt. The short version:
— Match cells in a parallel group. Same model, same capacity, same
voltage before you join them. Mismatched cells in parallel surge current
into each other the instant you connect them.
— Use a BMS that matches the series count exactly, rated above your real
peak current. It gives per-cell cutoff, over-current, and balancing. It is
not a fuse.
— Fuse the pack output on the positive leg, as close to the pack as it
physically goes, sized just above your real peak draw. The wire between the
cell and the fuse is the only unprotected copper in the build.
— Charge with a CC/CV charger set to the full-charge voltage the
calculator shows (16.8V for a 4S Li-ion pack, for example). Never a
nominal-voltage supply, never a lead-acid or wrong-chemistry charger.
— Never charge lithium-ion below freezing. It plates metallic lithium
inside the cell, which is permanent and dangerous. That is what the BMS
temperature probe is for.
The wiring, the balance-tap order, and the meter checks that catch a bad build
live in the BMS guides, not here. Read one before you pick up a soldering iron:
the Daly BMS guide (12V / 3S) and the 5S BMS guide (20V, tool-battery
voltage) walk a pack from loose cells to a sealed enclosure.
[ FAQ ]
18650 or 21700 for a new pack? 21700 if the space and weight allow it. It holds roughly 50% more energy than an 18650 and usually gives more current, so you reach the same pack with fewer cells, fewer welds, and fewer balance taps. 18650 still wins for tight or odd-shaped enclosures, or when you are reusing cells you already have. The math is identical either way. Can I mix different cells or brands in one pack? No. A series pack is only as good as its weakest cell, and cells in a parallel group must match closely or they fight each other. Same brand, model, capacity, and roughly the same age across the whole pack. Capacity-test and charge every cell to the same voltage before you join them. What charge rate should I use? 0.5C is the comfortable default: a 9Ah pack charges at about 4.5A and fills in roughly two hours plus a CV taper. Faster works up to the cell's rated charge current but runs warmer and shortens life. Above 1C is hard on most cells. Always use a CC/CV charger set to the pack's full-charge voltage. How many cells for a target energy or runtime? Work backwards from watt-hours. Energy is nominal voltage times capacity in amp-hours, so a 100W load for 3 hours needs about 300Wh. Pick S for the voltage you want, then add parallel cells until the usable-energy row clears your target. Series or parallel first when I assemble it? Parallel first. Charge every cell to the same voltage, build the parallel groups, let them settle, then wire the groups in series. A BMS then sees each group as one cell. Building series first and paralleling afterwards risks a large surge between mismatched groups.
[ See Also ]
Wiring a Daly BMS (12V / 3S) # build and wire the pack you just sized
Wiring a 5S BMS (20V) # the same build at 5S, a roll-your-own tool battery
Using a Power-Tool Battery # the buy-it-engineered alternative to rolling your own
Using a Basic Multimeter # the meter behind every check in the build guides
Solar Power Basics # charging a pack like this from panels
Meshtastic Node Build # battery and solar sizing for a node that lives outside
lygte-info.dk # independent 18650 and 21700 discharge curves and tests
